“The slow rhythm of the tango compelled everyone to dance. Professional tango-partners set the pace and created the style, like mannequins at a fashion parade. They ran to type and, while they danced, appeared to be in a vile temper, as if they would knife each other at any moment : sinuous and supple women with clinging gowns, men with lacquered blue-black hair, almond eyes, and side-whiskered bluish cheeks. A veneer of urbanity covered primeval passions.’’

(Harold Acton, Memoirs of An Aesthete, 1948, 38)

The introduction of loose-fitting flapper fashion in the early 1920s marked a period of bold, flirtatious self-expression for women. No longer restricted by their mothers’ corsets, long skirts, and bustles, the flapper look – with its handkerchief hemlines, dropped waistlines, bare shoulders, and elongated tubular silhouette – allowed wearers greater freedom of movement and the opportunity to reveal a bit of leg.

By the end of the First World War, the young men and women whose childhoods had been defined by death and devastation were now, as young adults, actively embracing a newfound sense of liberty and a carefree lifestyle. The oversized black-and-white photograph depicting a 1920s-inspired still life – recreated on the table below – illustrates how fashion reflected women’s newly gained independence following World War I. The papier-mâché hat stands feature the recognizable female “bob” hairstyle emblematic of the decade.

Young men, too, embraced this sense of liberation. This is evident in Harold’s affiliation with “The Bright Young Things,” a group of wealthy British youth known for their extravagant parties and flamboyant behavior, frequently captured by the tabloids. These “Roaring Twenties” gatherings were the places to be and be seen, to showcase fashionable attire, and to cultivate social networks with affluent and influential figures such as the novelist Nancy Mitford (1904–1973), a close friend of Harold’s and the person he would later go on to write about in his homonymously titled biography published in 1975.  

*Photograph on the left:  ‘A Flapper leading a toast at a party in Villa Emilia, Florence’, ca.1920, by Foto Locchi.  Photograph gsp [I.D.2.14-31] ©New York University, The Acton Photograph Archive, Villa La Pietra, Florence

This 1925 beaded pink flapper dress, attributed to the Callot Soeurs, resembles a blooming flower or a butterfly ready to take flight. The loose-fitting skirt is composed of petal-shaped fabric which would gracefully shift and glisten when it was spun around the dance floor. The pale pink sequins and glass beads, arranged in ornamental foliage motifs, cascading down the bodice of the dress, would glimmer by reflecting hints of light— shimmering for all to see—establishing for the viewer that the wearer is fashionable, free, and eager to socialize.

Twenties fashion, defined by its unrestricted, simple form and elegance, was first popularized by French designers, such as Coco Chanel (1883-1971), Jane Regny (1884-1954), the Callot Soeurs (active 1885-1937), and Jean Patou (1887-1936).

*Image on the right: Embroidered Pink Silk Net Evening Dress owned by Hortense Mitchell Acton, attributed to the Callot Soeurs, Paris, 1925-26 [L.G.49.ex Conti] © New York University, Acton Collection.

 

– Sophia Meyer